3 Exuberent Producers 6 Brilliant Wines
At Roti Roppongi from September through November 2015
Organic, biodynamic and made without any additives whatsoever, including sulfites, these wines might just change your world! The artisans who make these wines are seeking to make the most natural and frank expression of their vineyards as possible. While a wave or fashion of Natural Wines is currently sweeping the world from France to Australia, the Catalans are making some of the most brilliant of the genre. Quite unlike anything you’ve tasted before from Spain, they are both deliciously refreshing and digestible, and still embody the qualities of great wine by showing complexity and finesse.
Jordi Llorens Vi de Taula Natural Blan 5.7 2014……………………1/2 bottle 3900 Bottle 7800
Parellada 40%, Macabeu 60% – Jordi Llorens is part of the same group of raucous and exuberant Spanish Catalan Natural Wine producers as Escoda and Mendall and he’s equally aggressive in his farming biodynamically and his non-use of sulfites. He’s based close to Escoda in the Conca de Barbera. Jordi’s relatively quiet and reserved, as are his wines, at least to start…! This wine is a blend of Macabeu and Parellada and is always a trip; it’s likely to change in colour, sometimes turning orange, yet always retains a fantastic freshness, fruit, finesse and complexity.
Mendall Vi de Taula Abeurador 01 2014 ……………………………………1/2 bottle 4100 Bottle 8400
Macabeu -A white wine to make you weep with pleasure! If only all Natural Wine could be this clear and satisfying, if only all Wine could be this Natural! Abeurador is the name of the west-facing vineyard, on limestone soils at 450 metres which gives great mineral lemon freshness to the rich fruit. It’s of course made and bottled without sulfites and offers extraordinary complexity as well as persistence
Escoda Conca de Barbera Nas del Gegant 2013 ……………………..1/2 Bottle 3600 Bottle 7200
Cab Franc, Merlot, Garnacha -A fabulous Vin Nature, made without sulfites from Biodynamic vines. Escoda’s first red, a Loire Cab Franc-style with black fruit and Escoda energy! Made in concrete, aged in steel.
Escoda Conca de Barbera La Llopetera 2013 ………………………….1/2 Bottle 4500 Bottle 9000
Pinot Noir 100% – It’s Pinot Noir but not as you know it! A nearby Monastery in the Conca de Barbera with links to Bourgogne (of course) is probably the reason for the grape’s existence here. The soils here are very limestone and the air fresh but the Mediterranean climate causes a very different expression from Bourgogne and yet there’s still the freshness and finesse inherent in Bourgogne. Dense and complex, too, it’s a fabulous example of Natural Wine, and an essential Pinot Noir to discover.
Jordi Llorens Vi de Taula Atikete 2013 …………………………………….1/2 Bottle 4500 Bottle 9000
Cabernet 45%, Garnacha 45%, Macabeu10% -A brilliant new red, naturally made, without any sulfites added, by Jordi Llorens. It has wonderfully rich fruit aromas with that typical sense of innocence and purity found in all of Jordi’s wines and a reflection of Jordi himself! Atikete means dressed up for a special occasion; this wine spent not only spent a year in old French oak barriques but also comprises 10% white following an old tradition here, and which his grandparents practised. This lends both complexity and freshness.
Mendall Vi de Taula Espartal Grenache-le 2014……………………..1/2 Bottle 4500 Bottle 9000
Garnacha 100% -Mendall is probably the leader of the pack of Natural Wine producers in Spain, all of them distinguished, and aggressive in their non-use of sulfites! Made by Laureano Serres, Espartal is the most pure red, juicy, rich yet refined, and cool. It comes from relatively warm soils, a south east facing Finca, Espartal, in Pinell de Brai, Laureano’s village, on limestone clay at 120m altitude. It’s another astonishing production by Laureano.